Pocket Gophers and Pocket Gopher Control - Part 7 of 11 - Pocket Gopher Damage

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

Our Gopher & Pocket Gopher guides contain the same information (they're the same animal): If you've read one, you will not learn anything new in the other. Both are listed for site search purposes.

Pocket Gophers, if left unchecked, can cause extensive damage to household utility items as well as plant life. The pocket gopher has been known to chew through irrigation lines and utility cables as well as undermine and weaken a home foundation. The plant damage they may cause can include stem girdling and clipping, root pruning, and even root exposure. There also is the danger the pocket gopher may smother some plant life when piling soil over it when creating its mound.

Soil brought to and deposited on the surface by the pocket gopher has a greater chance of erosion by rainwater.

Pocket Gophers who live in canal and ditch banks tend to ruin the integrity of the banks in which they live and may cause complete failure of the retention system resulting in great disaster.

Acknowledgment:


• Case, R. M., 1994. Pocket gophers: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Department of Forestry, Fisheries
  and Wildlife. University of Nebraska
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

Pocket Gophers and Pocket Gopher Control - Part 6 of 11 - Pocket Gopher Facts

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

Our Gopher & Pocket Gopher guides contain the same information (they're the same animal): If you've read one, you will not learn anything new in the other. Both are listed for site search purposes.

• The pocket gopher is often confused with the mole and vole due to habitat overlap and similar eating habits — Control methods differ for these three species; many people misidentify their target and often use improper techniques in their abatement efforts.
  
• Pocket Gophers expel the soil they excavate from the burrow in a fan shape radiating away from the burrow opening. They will use both their claws and teeth while digging, pushing the soil and debris behind them with their hind claws, then flip over in a somersault motion and push the material out of the burrow with their forefeet and chest.
  
• A single pocket gopher can dig a burrow system consisting of up to 200 yards of tunnel in a year displacing as much as 2 ¼ tons of soil.
  
• Pocket gophers do not hibernate and are active throughout the year. They are most prolific in their mound building spring through fall, though some species will be less productive during summer months.
  
• Contrary to popular belief, studies have shown that pocket gophers are active throughout the day.
  
• The pocket gopher’s burrow system will typically consist of a main burrow with a number of laterals branching off from it. Systems found to be linear rather than branched are believed to belong to a male pocket gopher searching for a mate.
  
• Burrow diameters tend to be around 3 inches; areas larger than this diameter are believed to be resting or feeding areas.
  
• The nesting area of the pocket gopher will be filled with grass and other plant debris that the pocket gopher has formed into a ball — Some as deep as 5 or 6 feet underground.
  
• Pocket gophers live solitary lives. Exceptions to this rule occur during mating season, and when the female is raising her young.
  
• Pocket Gophers that reside in the more northern locations generally have 1 litter per year. Pocket gophers living in southern locals usually have 2. Some pocket gophers found in California may breed year—round.
  
• Litter sizes can range from 1 to 10 but usually average 3 or 4 young per litter. In areas where the pocket gopher has more than one breeding cycle per year, the litter sizes tend to be smaller.
  
• The teeth of the pocket gopher continuously grow to accommodate the near constant wear and tear exerted upon them.
  
• Pocket Gophers can exert up to 18,000 pounds per square inch with their bite
  

Acknowledgment:


• Case, R. M., 1994. Pocket gophers: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Department of Forestry, Fisheries
  and Wildlife. University of Nebraska
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

Pocket Gophers and Pocket Gopher Control - Part 5 of 11 - What Pocket Gophers Eat

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

Our Gopher & Pocket Gopher guides contain the same information (they're the same animal): If you've read one, you will not learn anything new in the other. Both are listed for site search purposes.

Pocket gophers are voracious herbivores; although they tend to prefer forbs and roots the pocket gopher will eat nearly any type of plant it comes across including grasses, shrubs, seedlings, and trees. Any animal matter consumed in its diet would most likely have been ingested by accident.

Pocket gophers are most likely to consume your plants in one of the following ways:

• Root feeding on plants they come across while foraging for food or searching for a mate. The pocket gopher commonly will clip the roots off below the surface where the damage done is not apparent. Occasionally the pocket gopher will clip the base of a plant to just above the surface.
  
• Pulling your plants down into their tunnel from below.
  
• Occasionally the pocket gopher will venture up to a body length from its burrow opening to consume surface vegetation. This activity only seems to happen during the growing season.
  

Acknowledgment:


• Case, R. M., 1994. Pocket gophers: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Department of Forestry, Fisheries
  and Wildlife. University of Nebraska
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

Pocket Gophers and Pocket Gopher Control - Part 4 of 11 - Where Pocket Gophers Live

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

Our Gopher & Pocket Gopher guides contain the same information (they're the same animal): If you've read one, you will not learn anything new in the other. Both are listed for site search purposes.

Pocket Gophers exist in a wide range of living conditions: pocket gophers are found in geographical elevations ranging from lowland costal areas, to mountains in excess of 12,000 feet amidst a wide array of soil types and climate conditions.

Pocket Gophers cannot survive in dense, heavy clay or continuously saturated soils. They require light-textured or loose conglomerate soil types that will allow gases to pass and water to drain. The transfer of exhaled gases to the surface and the introduction of fresh air to the burrow through the soil are a necessity for pocket gopher survival. In very sandy soil conditions the pocket gopher will tend to dig its tunnels to a depth where there is sufficient moisture in the soil to preserve the integrity of the burrow.

The pocket gopher can reside in a fairly rocky habitat; burrowing around rocks greater than 1 inch in diameter while pushing smaller rocks to the surface. In this particular environment, the area the pocket gopher inhabits will tend to not have more than 10% rocks in the top 8 inches of soil.

Environments that do not provide more than 4 inches of soil may limit the presence of pocket gophers for two reasons: the lack of enough soil to provide an insulating layer may prove too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter (in areas without snow to provide insulation) for the pocket gopher to tolerate.

Soil type and consistency greatly influence the size and distribution of pocket gophers. Many of the larger types of pocket gopher are generally only found east of the Rocky Mountains where soil tends to be composed mostly of sand and silt. Pocket Gophers appear to be "built" for the conditions they reside in and are not inclined to wander or mingle with other pocket gopher genera. As a rule, usually only one species of pocket gopher will be found to reside in a geographical location.

Acknowledgment:


• Case, R. M., 1994. Pocket gophers: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Department of Forestry, Fisheries
  and Wildlife. University of Nebraska
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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Pocket Gophers and Pocket Gopher Control - Part 3 of 11 - Pocket Gopher Geography

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

Our Gopher & Pocket Gopher guides contain the same information (they're the same animal): If you've read one, you will not learn anything new in the other. Both are listed for site search purposes.

Pocket gophers are found only in the Western Hemisphere ranging from Panama in the south to Alberta in the north.

• Plains pocket gophers (Geomys bursarius) are found in the central plains from Canada south through Texas and Louisiana.
  
• Botta’s pocket gophers (Thomomys bottae) are found in most of the southern half of the western United States
  

• Northern pocket gophers (Thomomys talpoides) range throughout most of the states in the northern half of the western United States
  
• Yellow-faced pocket gophers (Pappogeomys castanops) occur form Mexico, along the western edge of Texas, eastern New Mexico, southeastern Colorado, southwestern Kansas, and into the panhandle of Oklahoma.
  

• Southeastern pocket gophers (Geomys pinetis) are found in northern and central Florida, southern Georgia, and southeastern Alabama.
  
• Southern pocket gophers (Thomomys umbrinus) range primarily in Central America, but occur in extreme southwestern New Mexico and southeastern Arizona.
  
• Desert pocket gophers (Geomys arenarius) occur only in southwestern New Mexico and the extreme western edge of Texas.
  
• Mazama pocket gophers (Thomomys mazama), mountain pocket gophers (Thomomys monticola), and Camas pocket gophers (Thomomys bulbivorus) have more limited distributions in the extreme western United States.
  

Acknowledgment:


• Case, R. M., 1994. Pocket gophers: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Department of Forestry, Fisheries
  and Wildlife. University of Nebraska
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

Our Latest Links:

Gopher control, Vole control, Mole control at Birdhouse Best SellersThese discount birdhouses are well crafted and exquisitely designed to bring years of nesting pleasure to your feathery friends. We carry a large selection of decorative birdhouses ranging from Noah's Ark to a wedding chapel.

Pocket Gophers and Pocket Gopher Control - Part 2 of 11 - ID Your Pocket Gopher

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

Our Gopher & Pocket Gopher guides contain the same information (they're the same animal): If you've read one, you will not learn anything new in the other. Both are listed for site search purposes.

Pocket Gophers are often referred to as pocket gophers due to the presence of fur lined pouches found on either side of their mouth. The pocket gopher has the ability to turn these pockets inside out and uses them to carry food. Their small eyes and ears leave them with extremely poor sight and sound attributes and heavy dependence on their sense of touch. The pocket gopher’s whiskers function as a part of this sense of touch; they are very sensitive and aid them in their subterranean travels. The pocket gopher’s bald tail also helps the pocket gopher in its navigation when it moves in reverse. The tail also has the secondary function of helping it to regulate its body temperature.

Pocket Gophers range in size from about 5 to 14 inches long with males typically larger than females. Pocket Gopher fur is very soft, fine, and can be found in a wide range of colors from black to brown to very nearly white. The wide range in coloration and size is attributed to the pocket gopher’s adaptation to its immediate surroundings and its lack of desire to leave them – The pocket gopher does not travel and tends to live a solitary life.

The United States is home to 13 species of pocket gopher that hail from three genera (the locations where these particular pocket gophers live can be found on our Pocket Gopher Geography page. The sketches below display and point out the differences between these three pocket gopher genera.

Thomomys

• Smooth-faced incisors
  
• Small forefeet with small claws
  
• Thomomys talpoides are 6.5 to 10 inches long and typically have yellow-brown fur that is pale on the underside of their body
  
• Thomomys bottae vary in size from 5 to 13.5 inches long and may be found in any color from white to black.
  

Geomys

• Two grooves on each upper incisor
  
• Large forefeet with large claws
  
• Geomys bursarius vary from 7.5 to 14 inches long and color from brown to black
  
• Geomys arenarius 8.5 to 11 inches long and always found with brown fur
  
• Geomys personatus 8.5 to 13 inches long, also always found with brown fur
  
• Geomys pinetis 9 to 13.5 inches long and may have various shades of brown colored fur.
  

Pappogeomys

• Single groove on each upper incisor
  
• Large forefeet with large claws
  
• Typically have yellow fur on face
  
• Vary in length from 5 ½ to 7 ½ inches long
  
• Coloring varies from pale yellow to dark reddish brown
  
• Some hair on back and top of head may be dark tipped
  

Acknowledgment:


• Case, R. M., 1994. Pocket gophers: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Department of Forestry, Fisheries
  and Wildlife. University of Nebraska
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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Pocket Gophers and Pocket Gopher Control - Part 1 of 11 - The Pocket Gopher

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

Our Gopher & Pocket Gopher guides contain the same information (they're the same animal): If you've read one, you will not learn anything new in the other. Both are listed for site search purposes.

The pocket gopher is often confused with the vole or the mole because of the similarities they share in their burrowing technique, however, all of these creatures leave their own exclusive calling cards that can be used to differentiate between them. The pocket gopher’s calling card can be found in the way the pocket gopher creates its mounds. A pocket gopher mound will typically be found in a fan shape radiating outward from a focal point that is usually readily apparent.

The pocket gopher is a voracious herbivore; it is often the usual culprit when it comes to plant damage and the definite perpetrator when plants disappear. The majority of mole species only cause plant damage when foraging for insects and grubs near the plants roots but will not eat the plant itself. Voles will often stop to "snack" on vegetation found in the creation of their burrow, but foraging for food underground is not their typical practice.

Pocket Gophers can be found from sea level up to 12,000 ft, residing in a wide range of soil conditions varying from rocky to loose conglomerate, but will avoid wet, saturated, or heavy clay settings. Depending on soil conditions, a single pocket gopher can dig a burrow system consisting of up to 200 yards of tunnel in a year displacing as much as 2 ¼ tons of soil.

Like moles and voles, pocket gophers do not hibernate, and are active throughout the day.

Acknowledgment:


• Case, R. M., 1994. Pocket gophers: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Department of Forestry, Fisheries
  and Wildlife. University of Nebraska
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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Moles and Mole Control - Part 11 of 11 - Mole Control Methods

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Please see our Resource Directory for links to retailers who sell many of the Mole Control products mentioned below.

Repellants

• Predator Odors (Coyote urine, Fox urine, etc.)
  
• Sonic "mole chaser"
  
• The plants caper spurge, gopher purge, mole plant, and the castor oil plant
  
• Windmills (whirly-birds) – sound emitting
  
• Marigolds may repel some moles
  

Toxicants

• There are a number of mole baits available on the market
  

Fumigants

• Aluminum phosphide
  
• Carbon monoxide from engine exhaust
  

Trapping

• Many different types of both live and kill traps are currently available
  

Miscellaneous

• Professional abatement
  
• Owl box installation
  

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

Moles and Mole Control - Part 10 of 11 - Mole Damage Prevention - Create Your Own Raised Planter Box Liners

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

This preventative measure requires the use of ½-inch hardware fabric, which can be found at most hardware stores (hardware fabric is welded wire mesh similar to "chicken wire" but has smaller hole spacing. It is available in a range of sizes from ¼-inch up and a plethora of lengths and widths.). Tools required are: tin snips (to cut wire to length), roll of utility wire (fine gage, for constructing baskets), pliers, gloves (wire is sharp), and a staple gun (for raised boxes).

I create raised beds using redwood 2x12, retaining wall stock if available. Retaining wall stock or "rough redwood" material tends to be thicker and better suited for ground contact – Do Not Use pressure treated lumber in your garden, the chemicals used to make this material are highly toxic and will poison your plants. I build my raised beds 4-feet wide to facilitate the use of 4-foot wide hardware cloth (largest width available). Boxes may be constructed larger than this dimension, however, the seam between the two sections of hardware cloth will need to be "stitched" together as would be any end seams if it breaks in the center of the box. Once the box is assembled (use galvanized nails), select a top, flip the box upside down and staple the hardware cloth to the box with the longest galvanized staples you can find. Don’t be shy with the staples; use a lot of them. Right side the box and fill with soil. Check the integrity of the wire every couple years and replace when necessary.

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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Moles and Mole Control - Part 9 of 11 - Mole Damage Prevention - Create Your Own Plant Baskets

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

This preventative measure requires the use of ½-inch hardware fabric, which can be found at most hardware stores (hardware fabric is welded wire mesh similar to "chicken wire" but has smaller hole spacing. It is available in a range of sizes from ¼-inch up and a plethora of lengths and widths.). Tools required are: tin snips (to cut wire to length), roll of utility wire (fine gage, for constructing baskets), pliers, gloves (wire is sharp), and a staple gun (for raised boxes).

I create wire baskets using the ½-inch by 3-foot wide by 25-foot long rolls of hardware fabric described above, which will make six 18-inch baskets. I use the ½-inch mesh because the ¼-inch is too fine, and the 1-inch too large ("chicken wire" is much too large). First, let me mention that some hardware stores carry relatively inexpensive pre-made wire baskets for this exact purpose. If you can find these baskets in the size you require, I would recommend purchasing them as building them yourself is time consuming and a bit of a small battle (the hardware cloth seems to always want to stab me). I try to make my baskets at least twice the current diameter of the pot of the plant to be planted up to a maximum of 18–inches across (each 18-inch diameter basket will require approximately 5 linear feet of hardware cloth).

• Cut the hardware cloth to your desired length, and then cut it again lengthwise so you have two equally sized pieces (two baskets).
  
• Cut two or three pieces of wire 2-inches long, flex the hardware cloth around lengthwise so its ends overlap a bit and form a cylinder. In a couple areas, bend the 2-inch pieces of wire around the ends of the mesh where they overlap to hold the cylinder together.
  
• Cut a section of wire approximately 24-inches long and "stitch" the basket together by looping it through the overlapping holes, cut more wire if necessary. This should result in an 18-inch diameter by 18-inch tall cylinder.
  
• Cut a 24-inch by 24-inch piece of hardware cloth from the roll. Flatten this piece out and lay it on the ground. Select one end of your cylinder to be the top and set the other down centered upon the 24-inch by 24-inch piece.
  
• Cut three or four pieces of wire 2-inches long and use them to tie the bottom piece to the cylinder. Again, cut a 24-inch piece of wire and "stitch" the bottom to the cylinder by looping the wire through the holes. Once completed, bend the excess wire projecting from the cylinder up toward the basket.
  
• Dig a hole of a size that will allow 3-inches of the basket to project above the surface of the soil. Following this guideline will leave enough of the basket exposed for inspection of deterioration: This is critical when using the baskets for planting seasonal plants such as tomatoes, etc. When sufficient evidence of deterioration is noted it will be time to remove the basket and install a new one. The duration of basket longevity is difficult to determine due to differing weather conditions, water composition, soil types, fertilization, basket material composition, and etc. however, 3 to 5 years should be relatively safe.
  

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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Moles and Mole Control - Part 8 of 11 - Mole Damage Prevention

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

Because the mole is such a wide-ranging animal due to its food requirements, it is sometimes fairly difficult to prevent some of the damage the mole creates. Preventative measures should always be taken to protect new plants that are placed into a mole habitat. Yes, its true that most types of mole will not tend to create extensive damage to trees, shrubs, or other small plants, as the gopher would, but they can still cause quite a mess in a vegetable garden or a lawn. Preventative measures for a lawn are just not very plausible unless one was willing to remove their lawn, lay down wire mesh, and then re-install their lawn every couple years. Control methods rather than preventative measures will need to be used in this situation. However, protecting your garden, trees, shrubs and small plants can be accomplished.

Many of these techniques are the same preventative measures you would use for other burrowing critters such as gophers, voles, chipmunks, squirrels, woodchucks, shrews, prairie dogs or any other type of burrowing animal - The idea is the same – keep them out! I do just that by creating wire baskets that I set into the ground before planting my new plant; these baskets surround the roots of my small trees and shrubs with a protective barrier that allow the plants to establish themselves and grow large enough that they cannot be threatened by these menacing creatures. Another tactic I employ for the vegetable garden is to staple wire mesh to the bottom of raised redwood boxes, creating an impenetrable barrier to protect my vegetables.

Instructions for Wire Baskets

Instructions for Raised Planter Box Liners

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

Our Latest Links:

Moles and Mole Control - Part 7 of 11 - Mole Damage

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

The mole pushes soil it expels from the burrow out onto the surface vertically through its tunnel: in doing so the atypical mole mound shape that resembles a volcano is formed. The damage the mole causes to plant life is in most cases incidental and unintentional as most moles are not vegetarians. The mole can cause a great deal of inadvertent damage to plant life while surface foraging because of its large home range. The ridge caused by the mole in its surface tunneling can often become extremely noticeable in a lawn when the grass raised by the ridge dies and leaves what appears to be a brown stripe or collection of stripes.

The mole also has been known to undermine sections of foundation or wall in the construction of its nesting chamber. These types of voids can cause foundation fractures and wall failure.

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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Moles and Mole Control - Part 6 of 11 - Mole Facts

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

• The mole is often confused with the gopher and the vole due to habitat overlap and similar eating habits — Control methods differ for these three species; many people misidentify their target and often use improper techniques in their abatement efforts.
  
• Moles are not rodents, they are insectivores, and related to shrews and bats.
  
• Moles do not hibernate.
  
• Mole mounds are shaped like a volcano and can reach heights of up to two feet tall.
  
• Moles can dig up to 18 feet of surface tunnels per hour.
  
• Moles youngsters have less than a 50% chance of surviving long enough to reproduce.
  
• Moles can travel through their existing tunnels at 80 feet/minute.
  
• The female mole will have its litter of 2 to 7 young in March or early April
  
• The hairy-tailed mole will leave its burrow and travel on the surface at night in search of food.
  
• The "tentacles" on the nose of the star-nosed mole might be the most sensitive sensory organ of any mammal. The star-nosed mole uses these "tentacles" to constantly monitor its surroundings.
  
• The star-nosed mole is extremely active throughout the winter. It has been known to form tunnels through snow and even swim under the ice of frozen ponds.
  
• The shrew mole only sleeps 8 minutes at a time and will stay awake for a maximum of 18 minutes before falling asleep again.
  
• The Shrew mole is very social and can often be found traveling in a group of up to 11 others.
  
• When a shrew mole is scared it will hide for up to a minute, then re-emerge and continue to search for food.
  

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Moles and Mole Control - Part 5 of 11 - What Moles Eat

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

The only mole that is believed to eat underground plant matter is the Townsend’s mole; all other types are believed to be strict insectivores. Any damage done to plant life would most likely be incidental rather than deliberate or intentional: any plants or bulbs “unseated” during the travel of the mole appear to have been done so by accident. Visitors to the mole burrow are typically the cause of damage to plant life found in the proximity of the mole domain. These visitors may include: voles, mice, gophers, and shrews, among many others.

The mole will mainly eat insects, grubs, and worms found in its tunnels or while foraging and typically will consume up 1.5 times its bodyweight each day (the shrew mole may consume this same amount of food in 12 hours and can starve to death rapidly). This large amount of energy is required for the mole to sustain itself in its rigorous digging in search of more food or a mate. Because of these large food requirements, the density of moles per acre is far fewer than that of other burrowing animals (the male mole may cover up to 20 times the area the male gopher may cover).

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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Moles and Mole Control - Part 4 of 11 - Where Moles Live

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

Moles exist in a wide range of living conditions: they are found in geographical elevations ranging from lowland costal areas, to mountains in excess of 8,200 feet amidst a wide array of soil types and climate conditions.

The home range of the average male mole is extremely large due to the great amount of food a mole must consume to survive. As a result the mole must create a vast labyrinth of feeding tunnels covering a large area, many of which will be very shallow, create a ridge pattern on the surface, and may never be used again. Occasionally the mole will backfill these tunnels with soil brought up from below rather than pushing this soil all the way to the surface. Some species specifics are as follows:

• Eastern mole — Prefers moist, sandy soil conditions; not typically found in areas where the soil may have a large rock or gravel content. The eastern mole habitually creates two types of tunnels: the main burrow will be deep, containing burrows, and tunnels leading to feeding areas, and feeding tunnels that are shallow, very extensive, and may never be used again. The nesting chamber is usually filled with grasses and leaves and often will be found under tree roots, buildings, or a boulder. The eastern mole has been found to share its tunnels with other eastern moles.
  
• Hairy-tailed mole — Prefers light, well-drained soil. The hairy-tailed mole tends to be most active creating tunnels and mounds during the day; however, in its further search for food, it will leave its burrow and travel on the surface at night. These moles live solitarily during the winter, and the female will bear her young solitarily as well; but come spring, male hairy-tailed moles will socialize with other males and once the female bears her young, they will all share the same burrow.
  
• Star-nosed mole — Prefers moist soil with poor drainage, often habituating marshes, peat lands, and the banks of streams, lakes, and ponds. The star-nosed mole rarely digs tunnels shallow enough to be noticeable. Although most moles are prolific swimmers, only the star-nosed mole will venture into the water in search of food. It will construct its nest above the waters surface under some sort of protective object; however, the nest opening as well as many others of the star-nosed mole tunnels will open underwater. The star-nosed mole is also a social mole; often it can be found sharing its burrow with a number of its children and relatives. These moles will also use the surface for additional foraging.
  
• Broad-footed mole — Prefers moist soil. The broad-footed mole is active year round with especially vigorous behavior after the rain. Its nest will be constructed of leaves and grasses and is usually found greater than 1 foot deep into the ground. The broad-footed mole is extremely territorial; it will fiercely defend and patrol its burrow system and reside solitarily except when mating.
  
• Townsend’s mole — Prefers deep loamy soils found in moist lowland areas. The Townsend’s mole, like the eastern mole, usually creates two types of tunnels: the main burrow will be deep, containing burrows, and tunnels leading to feeding areas, and feeding tunnels that are shallow, very extensive, and may never be used again. The Townsend’s mole builds the largest nesting cavity of any North American mole. The female Townsend’s mole will construct the cavity in an elevated, protected area with many exit tunnels and line it with dry vegetation that she will change often. Often, this nesting chamber can be found by watching for a particularly large mound or several smaller mounds grouped closely together. These moles will also use the surface for additional foraging and travel.
  
• Coast mole — Prefers light, moist soil, but can also be found in sand or gravel. The coast mole is often confused with the Townsend’s mole due to their nearly identical living behavior and overlapping habitat. The nesting chamber of the coast mole is less elaborate as that of the Townsend’s mole, and typically found lined with coarse grass. The coast mole is almost never found on the surface.
  
• Shrew mole — Prefers light, easy to dig soil, containing a large amount of plant matter. The shrew mole, like many other moles, creates two types of tunnels: the primary, for travel and forage, being very shallow, often directly below loose leaves and brush. Secondary tunnels are less frequent, less that 12-inches in depth, and are used for sleeping. The shrew mole usually does not create "mole mounds" and its tunnel entrances are typically open. The female shrew mole builds its nest above ground; these nests can often be found in the low branches of shrubs.
  

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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Moles and Mole Control - Part 3 of 11 - Mole Geography

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

• Eastern mole — found from southeastern Wyoming, South Dakota, and central Texas east to Michigan, Massachusetts, and New England, south to the tip of Florida, and north to Ontario.
  
• Hairy-tailed mole — found in the northeastern United States and southeastern Canada.
  
• Star-nosed mole — also found in the northeastern United States and southeastern Canada.
  
• Broad-footed mole — resides in southern Oregon and the entire coastal region of California except the Baja peninsula.
  
• Townsend’s mole — found in the furthest northwest corner on the United States and southwest Canada.
  
• Coast mole — also found in the furthest northwest corner on the United States and southwest Canada.
  
• Shrew mole — another species found on the west coast from Santa Cruz county (California) to southern British Columbia.
  

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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Moles and Mole Control - Part 2 of 11 - ID your Mole

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

The average mole is about the size of a chipmunk, the exception being the shrew mole that is approximately the size of a small mouse. They are found to weigh anywhere from ¼ ounce to 6 ounces. The mole has very small eyes and ears, both of which are hidden in its fur and have limited sensitivity. It is believed the mole can detect the presence or lack of light but that it cannot see. It is also believed that most moles, except the Star-nosed mole that has excellent hearing, may only be able to detect vibrations with its undeveloped ears. As a result of these two sensory "blindness’s", the average mole has highly developed senses of smell and touch. The forefeet of the mole are proportionally very large to the rest of the body; its palms are typically wider than they are long with webbed digits tipped with claws. The hind feet of the mole are small, narrow, and clawed.

North America is home to seven species of mole:

• Eastern mole, Scalopus aquaticus, is the most common American mole. It has thick fur that can vary from silver to black to copper in its coloring and has a short, hairless, rounded tail. The eastern mole will grow to between 4.5-inches and 6.5-inches long and have an average weight of approximately 2.6 ounces.
  
• Hairy-tailed mole, Parascalops breweri, has thick, gray-black to black fur, a long red-tipped snout, and a thick fleshy tail. The hairy-tailed mole does not have webbed toes. It will grow to between 5-inches and 7-inches long and have an average weight of approximately 2.2 ounces.
  
• Star-nosed mole, Condylura cristata, has been so named due to the short, fleshy, highly sensitive tentacles that extend from its hairless nose. This mole has short, coarse, dark brown to black fur and a short tail that will enlarge 3 to 4 times its normal size in the winter. The star-nosed mole will grow to between 6.75-inches and 8-inches long and weight between 1.25 ounces and 2.75 ounces.
  
• Broad-footed mole, Scapanus latimanus. The broad-footed mole is covered from tip of nose to tip of tail with dark brown to silver-gray fur. It will grow to between 5.5-inches and 7.75-inches long and have an average weight of approximately 1.5 ounces.
  
• Townsend’s mole, Scapanus townsendii, the largest mole in North America, is found with short, purple-gray to black fur that will typically have a metallic sheen. The Townsend’s mole will grow to between 7-inches and 9.25-inches long and have an average weight of approximately 4.5 ounces.
  
• Coast mole, Scapanus orarius, is found with soft dark gray fur and a nearly bald tail. The coast mole will grow to between 5.5-inches and 7.5-inches long and weight between 2 ounces and 3.25 ounces.
  
• Shrew mole, Neurotrichus gibbsii, is found with black or blue-black fur and has a wide tail that is typically half the length of the body. The shrew mole is the smallest of the North American genera; it will grow to between 3-inches and 5-inches long and weight between .25 ounces and .5 ounces.
  

The locations where these particular moles live can be found on our Mole Geography page.

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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Moles and Mole Control - Part 1 of 11 - The Mole - This series is a repost.... we have recieved lots of questions

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

The mole is often confused with the gopher and the vole due to habitat overlap and similar eating habits - Control methods differ for these three species; many people misidentify their target and often use improper techniques in their abatement efforts.

The home range of a single mole is very large in comparison to other burrowing animals such as the gopher or the vole because it must cover a great amount of territory to meet its food requirements of up to 1.5 times its body weight per day. This large food requirement results in far fewer moles per acre than gophers or voles (the male mole may cover up to 20 times the area the male gopher may cover) and result in the creation of a vast labyrinth of feeding tunnels covering a large area, many of which will be very shallow, and create a ridge pattern on the surface. The mounds created by the mole from the creation of these tunnels are typically shaped like a volcano and can reach heights of up to two feet tall.

Moles are insectivores and most damage done by them to plant life is typically incidental rather than intentional (the exception being the Townsend’s mole, which is known to eat plants as well).

Like gophers and voles, moles do not hibernate, and are active throughout the day.

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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