Voles and Vole Control - Part 5 of 11 - What Voles Eat

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

The vole is primarily a herbivore, feeding on roots, leaves, seeds, grasses, fruit, underground fungi, and nearly any type of green plant. The meadow vole is a particularly voracious eater, devouring up to 60% of its bodyweight including insects and the young of other meadow voles. Voles do not hibernate or store caches of food (except possibly the pine vole); many voles will eat bark and twigs during the winter months when green food is scarce.

Acknowledgment:

• O'Brein, John M., 1994. Voles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Agricultural Programs Coordinator. Nevada Department of Agriculture
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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Voles and Vole Control - Part 4 of 11 - Where Voles Live

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

Voles, like moles, exist in a wide range of living conditions: they are found in geographical elevations ranging from lowland costal areas, to mountains in excess of 12,000 feet amidst a wide array of soil types and climate conditions.

Voles as a species prefer to habituate areas thick in grasses and underbrush where they can create runways and grass tunnels that will keep their travels hidden away from predatory eyes. When tunnels are available, most species of vole will borrow these tunnels and runway systems created by other types of burrowing pests such as the gopher or mole rather than dig their own. Often while traveling through these tunnels the vole will stop to “snack” on food sources it finds in the tunnel which can cause critter identification confusion such as when it borrows the tunnel of a mole.

The most obvious vole calling card can be found at its burrow opening. The vole burrow opening will typically have all of the grass that immediately surrounds it closely cropped and there will not be any apparent soil mounding evidence.

Some vole species specifics are as follows:

• Mountain vole — Prefers a moist or wet habitat with abundant, dense, grass protection. The mountain vole will often be found near a source of water. The nest of the mountain vole, which is often lined with dried grasses, will be excavated in moist soil. The female mountain vole is territorial, and will defend up to 100 feet from the nest opening.
  
• California vole — The California vole will often be found to reside in a habitat very similar to that of the mountain vole. Also in common with the mountain vole, this vole will create its nesting burrow with dried grasses however, unlike the mountain vole, both the male and female will defend the nest. The California vole is a social species, often sharing its burrow with other voles after the breeding season.
  
• Oregon vole — Found mostly in forested area in various condition of tree and brush coverage from heavy forestation to burned or clear-cut. The population of Oregon voles is often found to be higher in the areas of clear-cut or fire damage possibly due to the increase in sun exposure and the resulting increase in plant growth. This vole can often be found to make its burrow and nest inside rotting logs.
  
• Pine vole — The pine or woodland vole will be found in deciduous forest areas where they will forage and create their burrow in the dense leaf foliage and loose soil found on the forest floor. The female of this species of vole will create a round shaped nest of shredded vegetation. The pine vole is a social vole, and may often be found in the company of other pine voles.
  
• Prairie vole — As their name suggests, the prairie vole will typically be found on grass-covered plains and fields. Like the pine or woodland vole, the prairie vole will construct a ball shaped nest of vegetation and grass. This vole is monogamous, and the male will help with raising the young. The male prairie vole is fiercely territorial and will evict any other males who enter his territory.
  
• Long-tailed vole — The long tailed vole habituates a wide range of environmental conditions from mountains to forest to grasslands to marshlands. This particular vole is not known to create much of a surface runway system but is a prolific burrower.
  
• Meadow vole — Being the most widespread vole in North America, it is understandable that the meadow vole can be found to inhabit nearly any type of moist ecological location. The meadow vole will create an extremely elaborate surface runway system to forage and mate, and they are capable diggers and swimmers. The female meadow vole is territorial and will aggressively defend her space.
  

Acknowledgment:

• O'Brein, John M., 1994. Voles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Agricultural Programs Coordinator. Nevada Department of Agriculture
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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Voles and Vole Control - Part 3 of 11 - Vole Geography

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• Prairie vole (Microtus ochrogaster) occur from northeastern New Mexico across to Alabama, up toward western West Virginia and northwest to central Alberta.
  

• Meadow vole (Microtus pennsylvanicus) occur from Alaska to the Atlantic coast, south to northern Georgia, and west to the Rocky Mountains. Also found in northern New Mexico.
  
• California vole (Microtus californicus) found along the Pacific Coast from British Colombia to the upper coastal regions of California.
  

• Long-tailed vole (Microtus longicaudus) found throughout the western United States and Canada up to the southeastern edge of Alaska.
  

• Pine vole (Microtus pinetorum) found throughout the eastern United States from New Hampshire to southern Georgia, across to eastern Texas, and diagonally up to the Great Lakes.
  
• Mountain vole (Microtus montanus) found from the Sierra Nevada in California to British Colombia and across to the Rocky Mountain Range.
  
• Oregon vole (Microtus oregoni) found along the Pacific Coast from lower British Colombia to the upper coastal regions of California.
  
  
  
  

Acknowledgment:

• O'Brein, John M., 1994. Voles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Agricultural Programs Coordinator. Nevada Department of Agriculture
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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Voles and Vole Control - Part 2 of 11 - ID your Vole

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

The Vole is often called a meadow mouse or field mouse, and it averages the size of a large mouse or small rat. They are found to weigh anywhere from ½ ounce to 3 ounces. The vole has small eyes and ears, the latter being mostly hidden in its fur.

Although it is generally believed that the vole is nocturnal, they may be active at any time. The vole will create shallow surface tunnels much like the mole in its search for food, but it is also just as likely to be found foraging on the surface. Most voles are social animals and many types will share their burrow with a handful of loosely related individuals.

North America is home to 23 species of vole: Below, we will discuss seven of the widest ranging and most destructive of these 23 species. The locations where these particular voles live may be found on our Vole Geography page.

• Mountain vole, Microtus montanus, also known as the montane vole. It has grayish brown to brownish yellow fur on its upper body and white tipped, black hair on its underside. The mountain vole will grow to between 5.5-inches and 7-inches long and have an average weight of approximately 2.5 ounces.
  
• California vole, Microtus californicus, has brown colored fur usually with a reddish hued section down the center of the back; its underside is typically blue-gray to white. The California vole spends very little of its time on the surface. It will grow to between 5.5-inches and 8.5-inches long and weigh between 1.3 ounces and 3.75 ounces.
  
• Oregon vole, Microtus oregoni, also known as the creeping vole. This vole has dark gray to dark brown fur with an underside that is gray to white. The Oregon vole will grow to between 5.5-inches and 6.5-inches long and weigh between 1.25 ounces and 2.75 ounces.
  
• Pine vole, Microtus pinetorum. also known as the woodland vole and one of the smallest voles in the United States. The pine vole is covered from tip of nose to tip of tail with light brown to dark brown fur with a white or silvery underside. It will grow to between 3.25-inches and 4.75-inches long and weigh between .5 ounces and 1.25 ounces.
  
• Prairie vole, Microtus ochrogaster, the most common vole found in the Great Plains grasslands and prairie habitats. The prairie vole is found with dark brown to black hair tipped with black or muddy-yellow and a tan underside. This vole will grow to between 5-inches and 7-inches and weigh between 1 ounce and 2.5 ounces.
  
• Long-tailed vole, Microtus longicaudus, aptly named; the tail of the long-tailed vole will often make up 30% or more of its total length. This vole is found with black tipped, gray-brown to dark brown fur and a light colored underside. The Long-tailed vole will grow to between 6-inches and 10-inches long and weight between 2 ounces and 3.5 ounces.
  
• Meadow vole, Microtus pennsylvanicus, the most common vole in North America. The meadow vole is found with coarse, dark brown to reddish brown fur and a gray or off-white underside. This vole will grow to between 5-inches and 7.5-inches and weigh between 1.25 ounce and 2.5 ounces.
  

Acknowledgment:

• O'Brein, John M., 1994. Voles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Agricultural Programs Coordinator. Nevada Department of Agriculture
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

Recent Website updates/changes:

Mole control, Vole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home at aboutus.org Check out our new listing on Aboutus.org

Voles and Vole Control - Part 1 of 11 - The Vole

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The vole is often confused with the mole and gopher due to habitat overlap and similar eating habits - Control methods differ for these three species; many people misidentify their target and often use improper techniques in their abatement efforts.

A vole is, to all intents and purposes, a medium to large sized mouse that lives outdoors: except it has smaller ears. The vole is, in fact, often called a meadow mouse or field mouse and like the mouse is capable of explosive population growth in areas where abundant food and shelter can be found. If vole presence is confirmed, immediate steps must be taken to remove the vole as these animals can do a great deal of damage to orchards, crops, and landscaping in a short period of time. The female vole has an average of 3 to 4 litters of 3 to 6 young a year of which the female offspring will mature in 35 to 40 days and begin to have young of her own. This high reproductive rate in combination with ideal living conditions has led to recorded vole populations of up to 500 or more voles per acre.

The most obvious vole calling card can be found at its burrow opening. The vole burrow opening will typically have all of the grass that immediately surrounds it closely cropped and there will not be any apparent soil mounding evidence. Another sign of vole activity will be the presence of surface runways (tunnels made through heavy vegetation or grasses) that are required by voles both for food foraging and cover while traveling.

Vole prevention is easily accomplished with some simple "housekeeping" habits. These preventative measures, once taken, will often remove a great portion of the vole problem leaving only a small clan of individuals to deal with.

Like gophers and moles, voles do not hibernate, and are active throughout the day.

Acknowledgment:

• O'Brein, John M., 1994. Voles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Agricultural Programs Coordinator. Nevada Department of Agriculture
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

Recent Website updates/changes:

Moles and Mole Control - Part 11 of 11 - Mole Control Methods

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

Please see our Resource Directory for links to retailers who sell many of the Mole Control products mentioned below.

Repellants

• Predator Odors (Coyote urine, Fox urine, etc.)
  
• Sonic "mole chaser"
  
• The plants caper spurge, gopher purge, mole plant, and the castor oil plant
  
• Windmills (whirly-birds) – sound emitting
  
• Marigolds may repel some moles
  

Toxicants

• There are a number of mole baits available on the market
  

Fumigants

• Aluminum phosphide
  
• Carbon monoxide from engine exhaust
  

Trapping

• Many different types of both live and kill traps are currently available
  

Miscellaneous

• Professional abatement
  
• Owl box installation
  

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

Recent Website updates/changes:

Moles and Mole Control - Part 10 of 11 - Mole Damage Prevention - Create Your Own Raised Planter Box Liners

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

This preventative measure requires the use of ½-inch hardware fabric, which can be found at most hardware stores (hardware fabric is welded wire mesh similar to "chicken wire" but has smaller hole spacing. It is available in a range of sizes from ¼-inch up and a plethora of lengths and widths.). Tools required are: tin snips (to cut wire to length), roll of utility wire (fine gage, for constructing baskets), pliers, gloves (wire is sharp), and a staple gun (for raised boxes).

I create raised beds using redwood 2x12, retaining wall stock if available. Retaining wall stock or "rough redwood" material tends to be thicker and better suited for ground contact – Do Not Use pressure treated lumber in your garden, the chemicals used to make this material are highly toxic and will poison your plants. I build my raised beds 4-feet wide to facilitate the use of 4-foot wide hardware cloth (largest width available). Boxes may be constructed larger than this dimension, however, the seam between the two sections of hardware cloth will need to be "stitched" together as would be any end seams if it breaks in the center of the box. Once the box is assembled (use galvanized nails), select a top, flip the box upside down and staple the hardware cloth to the box with the longest galvanized staples you can find. Don’t be shy with the staples; use a lot of them. Right side the box and fill with soil. Check the integrity of the wire every couple years and replace when necessary.

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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Mole Factoids - Revised - Mole Facts

Vole Factoids - Revised - Vole Facts

Gopher Factoids - Revised - gopher Facts

Chipmunk Factoids - Revised - Chipmunk Facts

Prairie Dog Factoids - Revised - Prairie Dog Facts

Shrew Factoids - Revised - Shrew Facts

Squirrel Factoids - Revised - Squirrel Facts

Woodchuck Factoids - Revised - Woodchuck Facts

Moles and Mole Control - Part 9 of 11 - Mole Damage Prevention - Create Your Own Plant Baskets

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

This preventative measure requires the use of ½-inch hardware fabric, which can be found at most hardware stores (hardware fabric is welded wire mesh similar to "chicken wire" but has smaller hole spacing. It is available in a range of sizes from ¼-inch up and a plethora of lengths and widths.). Tools required are: tin snips (to cut wire to length), roll of utility wire (fine gage, for constructing baskets), pliers, gloves (wire is sharp), and a staple gun (for raised boxes).

I create wire baskets using the ½-inch by 3-foot wide by 25-foot long rolls of hardware fabric described above, which will make six 18-inch baskets. I use the ½-inch mesh because the ¼-inch is too fine, and the 1-inch too large ("chicken wire" is much too large). First, let me mention that some hardware stores carry relatively inexpensive pre-made wire baskets for this exact purpose. If you can find these baskets in the size you require, I would recommend purchasing them as building them yourself is time consuming and a bit of a small battle (the hardware cloth seems to always want to stab me). I try to make my baskets at least twice the current diameter of the pot of the plant to be planted up to a maximum of 18–inches across (each 18-inch diameter basket will require approximately 5 linear feet of hardware cloth).

• Cut the hardware cloth to your desired length, and then cut it again lengthwise so you have two equally sized pieces (two baskets).
  
• Cut two or three pieces of wire 2-inches long, flex the hardware cloth around lengthwise so its ends overlap a bit and form a cylinder. In a couple areas, bend the 2-inch pieces of wire around the ends of the mesh where they overlap to hold the cylinder together.
  
• Cut a section of wire approximately 24-inches long and "stitch" the basket together by looping it through the overlapping holes, cut more wire if necessary. This should result in an 18-inch diameter by 18-inch tall cylinder.
  
• Cut a 24-inch by 24-inch piece of hardware cloth from the roll. Flatten this piece out and lay it on the ground. Select one end of your cylinder to be the top and set the other down centered upon the 24-inch by 24-inch piece.
  
• Cut three or four pieces of wire 2-inches long and use them to tie the bottom piece to the cylinder. Again, cut a 24-inch piece of wire and "stitch" the bottom to the cylinder by looping the wire through the holes. Once completed, bend the excess wire projecting from the cylinder up toward the basket.
  
• Dig a hole of a size that will allow 3-inches of the basket to project above the surface of the soil. Following this guideline will leave enough of the basket exposed for inspection of deterioration: This is critical when using the baskets for planting seasonal plants such as tomatoes, etc. When sufficient evidence of deterioration is noted it will be time to remove the basket and install a new one. The duration of basket longevity is difficult to determine due to differing weather conditions, water composition, soil types, fertilization, basket material composition, and etc. however, 3 to 5 years should be relatively safe.
  

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

Recent Website updates/changes:

Moles and Mole Control - Part 8 of 11 - Mole Damage Prevention

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

Because the mole is such a wide-ranging animal due to its food requirements, it is sometimes fairly difficult to prevent some of the damage the mole creates. Preventative measures should always be taken to protect new plants that are placed into a mole habitat. Yes, its true that most types of mole will not tend to create extensive damage to trees, shrubs, or other small plants, as the gopher would, but they can still cause quite a mess in a vegetable garden or a lawn. Preventative measures for a lawn are just not very plausible unless one was willing to remove their lawn, lay down wire mesh, and then re-install their lawn every couple years. Control methods rather than preventative measures will need to be used in this situation. However, protecting your garden, trees, shrubs and small plants can be accomplished.

Many of these techniques are the same preventative measures you would use for other burrowing critters such as gophers, voles, chipmunks, squirrels, woodchucks, shrews, prairie dogs or any other type of burrowing animal - The idea is the same – keep them out! I do just that by creating wire baskets that I set into the ground before planting my new plant; these baskets surround the roots of my small trees and shrubs with a protective barrier that allow the plants to establish themselves and grow large enough that they cannot be threatened by these menacing creatures. Another tactic I employ for the vegetable garden is to staple wire mesh to the bottom of raised redwood boxes, creating an impenetrable barrier to protect my vegetables.

Instructions for Wire Baskets

Instructions for Raised Planter Box Liners

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

Recent Website updates/changes:

Moles and Mole Control - Part 7 of 11 - Mole Damage

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The mole pushes soil it expels from the burrow out onto the surface vertically through its tunnel: in doing so the atypical mole mound shape that resembles a volcano is formed. The damage the mole causes to plant life is in most cases incidental and unintentional as most moles are not vegetarians. The mole can cause a great deal of inadvertent damage to plant life while surface foraging because of its large home range. The ridge caused by the mole in its surface tunneling can often become extremely noticeable in a lawn when the grass raised by the ridge dies and leaves what appears to be a brown stripe or collection of stripes.

The mole also has been known to undermine sections of foundation or wall in the construction of its nesting chamber. These types of voids can cause foundation fractures and wall failure.

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

Recent updates/changes:

Moles and Mole Control - Part 6 of 11 - Mole Facts

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

• The mole is often confused with the gopher and the vole due to habitat overlap and similar eating habits — Control methods differ for these three species; many people misidentify their target and often use improper techniques in their abatement efforts.
  
• Moles are not rodents, they are insectivores, and related to shrews and bats.
  
• Moles do not hibernate.
  
• Mole mounds are shaped like a volcano and can reach heights of up to two feet tall.
  
• Moles can dig up to 18 feet of surface tunnels per hour.
  
• Moles youngsters have less than a 50% chance of surviving long enough to reproduce.
  
• Moles can travel through their existing tunnels at 80 feet/minute.
  
• The female mole will have its litter of 2 to 7 young in March or early April
  
• The hairy-tailed mole will leave its burrow and travel on the surface at night in search of food.
  
• The "tentacles" on the nose of the star-nosed mole might be the most sensitive sensory organ of any mammal. The star-nosed mole uses these "tentacles" to constantly monitor its surroundings.
  
• The star-nosed mole is extremely active throughout the winter. It has been known to form tunnels through snow and even swim under the ice of frozen ponds.
  
• The shrew mole only sleeps 8 minutes at a time and will stay awake for a maximum of 18 minutes before falling asleep again.
  
• The Shrew mole is very social and can often be found traveling in a group of up to 11 others.
  
• When a shrew mole is scared it will hide for up to a minute, then re-emerge and continue to search for food.
  

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

Recent updates/changes:

Submit Site Form - Our new, super easy to use, link exchange form
The Mole - Mole Overview
ID Your Mole - Figure out which type of mole you have
Mole Geography - Geographical locations where various mole types live
Where Moles Live - Mole habitat
The Vole - Vole Overview

Moles and Mole Control - Part 5 of 11 - What Moles Eat

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

The only mole that is believed to eat underground plant matter is the Townsend’s mole; all other types are believed to be strict insectivores. Any damage done to plant life would most likely be incidental rather than deliberate or intentional: any plants or bulbs “unseated” during the travel of the mole appear to have been done so by accident. Visitors to the mole burrow are typically the cause of damage to plant life found in the proximity of the mole domain. These visitors may include: voles, mice, gophers, and shrews, among many others.

The mole will mainly eat insects, grubs, and worms found in its tunnels or while foraging and typically will consume up 1.5 times its bodyweight each day (the shrew mole may consume this same amount of food in 12 hours and can starve to death rapidly). This large amount of energy is required for the mole to sustain itself in its rigorous digging in search of more food or a mate. Because of these large food requirements, the density of moles per acre is far fewer than that of other burrowing animals (the male mole may cover up to 20 times the area the male gopher may cover).

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

Recent updates/changes:

Mole Primer Our new Mole promotional page at Earthink

Moles and Mole Control - Part 4 of 11 - Where Moles Live

This article may be viewed in its entirety on our website Vole control, Mole control, Gopher control: Crittergetteronline Home. Select your desired link from the "Critter Confused" navigation box on the left.

Moles exist in a wide range of living conditions: they are found in geographical elevations ranging from lowland costal areas, to mountains in excess of 8,200 feet amidst a wide array of soil types and climate conditions.

The home range of the average male mole is extremely large due to the great amount of food a mole must consume to survive. As a result the mole must create a vast labyrinth of feeding tunnels covering a large area, many of which will be very shallow, create a ridge pattern on the surface, and may never be used again. Occasionally the mole will backfill these tunnels with soil brought up from below rather than pushing this soil all the way to the surface. Some species specifics are as follows:

• Eastern mole — Prefers moist, sandy soil conditions; not typically found in areas where the soil may have a large rock or gravel content. The eastern mole habitually creates two types of tunnels: the main burrow will be deep, containing burrows, and tunnels leading to feeding areas, and feeding tunnels that are shallow, very extensive, and may never be used again. The nesting chamber is usually filled with grasses and leaves and often will be found under tree roots, buildings, or a boulder. The eastern mole has been found to share its tunnels with other eastern moles.
  
• Hairy-tailed mole — Prefers light, well-drained soil. The hairy-tailed mole tends to be most active creating tunnels and mounds during the day; however, in its further search for food, it will leave its burrow and travel on the surface at night. These moles live solitarily during the winter, and the female will bear her young solitarily as well; but come spring, male hairy-tailed moles will socialize with other males and once the female bears her young, they will all share the same burrow.
  
• Star-nosed mole — Prefers moist soil with poor drainage, often habituating marshes, peat lands, and the banks of streams, lakes, and ponds. The star-nosed mole rarely digs tunnels shallow enough to be noticeable. Although most moles are prolific swimmers, only the star-nosed mole will venture into the water in search of food. It will construct its nest above the waters surface under some sort of protective object; however, the nest opening as well as many others of the star-nosed mole tunnels will open underwater. The star-nosed mole is also a social mole; often it can be found sharing its burrow with a number of its children and relatives. These moles will also use the surface for additional foraging.
  
• Broad-footed mole — Prefers moist soil. The broad-footed mole is active year round with especially vigorous behavior after the rain. Its nest will be constructed of leaves and grasses and is usually found greater than 1 foot deep into the ground. The broad-footed mole is extremely territorial; it will fiercely defend and patrol its burrow system and reside solitarily except when mating.
  
• Townsend’s mole — Prefers deep loamy soils found in moist lowland areas. The Townsend’s mole, like the eastern mole, usually creates two types of tunnels: the main burrow will be deep, containing burrows, and tunnels leading to feeding areas, and feeding tunnels that are shallow, very extensive, and may never be used again. The Townsend’s mole builds the largest nesting cavity of any North American mole. The female Townsend’s mole will construct the cavity in an elevated, protected area with many exit tunnels and line it with dry vegetation that she will change often. Often, this nesting chamber can be found by watching for a particularly large mound or several smaller mounds grouped closely together. These moles will also use the surface for additional foraging and travel.
  
• Coast mole — Prefers light, moist soil, but can also be found in sand or gravel. The coast mole is often confused with the Townsend’s mole due to their nearly identical living behavior and overlapping habitat. The nesting chamber of the coast mole is less elaborate as that of the Townsend’s mole, and typically found lined with coarse grass. The coast mole is almost never found on the surface.
  
• Shrew mole — Prefers light, easy to dig soil, containing a large amount of plant matter. The shrew mole, like many other moles, creates two types of tunnels: the primary, for travel and forage, being very shallow, often directly below loose leaves and brush. Secondary tunnels are less frequent, less that 12-inches in depth, and are used for sleeping. The shrew mole usually does not create "mole mounds" and its tunnel entrances are typically open. The female shrew mole builds its nest above ground; these nests can often be found in the low branches of shrubs.
  

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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• Eastern mole — found from southeastern Wyoming, South Dakota, and central Texas east to Michigan, Massachusetts, and New England, south to the tip of Florida, and north to Ontario.
  
• Hairy-tailed mole — found in the northeastern United States and southeastern Canada.
  
• Star-nosed mole — also found in the northeastern United States and southeastern Canada.
  
• Broad-footed mole — resides in southern Oregon and the entire coastal region of California except the Baja peninsula.
  
• Townsend’s mole — found in the furthest northwest corner on the United States and southwest Canada.
  
• Coast mole — also found in the furthest northwest corner on the United States and southwest Canada.
  
• Shrew mole — another species found on the west coast from Santa Cruz county (California) to southern British Columbia.
  

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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Moles and Mole Control - Part 2 of 11 - ID your Mole

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The average mole is about the size of a chipmunk, the exception being the shrew mole that is approximately the size of a small mouse. They are found to weigh anywhere from ¼ ounce to 6 ounces. The mole has very small eyes and ears, both of which are hidden in its fur and have limited sensitivity. It is believed the mole can detect the presence or lack of light but that it cannot see. It is also believed that most moles, except the Star-nosed mole that has excellent hearing, may only be able to detect vibrations with its undeveloped ears. As a result of these two sensory "blindness’s", the average mole has highly developed senses of smell and touch. The forefeet of the mole are proportionally very large to the rest of the body; its palms are typically wider than they are long with webbed digits tipped with claws. The hind feet of the mole are small, narrow, and clawed.

North America is home to seven species of mole:

• Eastern mole, Scalopus aquaticus, is the most common American mole. It has thick fur that can vary from silver to black to copper in its coloring and has a short, hairless, rounded tail. The eastern mole will grow to between 4.5-inches and 6.5-inches long and have an average weight of approximately 2.6 ounces.
  
• Hairy-tailed mole, Parascalops breweri, has thick, gray-black to black fur, a long red-tipped snout, and a thick fleshy tail. The hairy-tailed mole does not have webbed toes. It will grow to between 5-inches and 7-inches long and have an average weight of approximately 2.2 ounces.
  
• Star-nosed mole, Condylura cristata, has been so named due to the short, fleshy, highly sensitive tentacles that extend from its hairless nose. This mole has short, coarse, dark brown to black fur and a short tail that will enlarge 3 to 4 times its normal size in the winter. The star-nosed mole will grow to between 6.75-inches and 8-inches long and weight between 1.25 ounces and 2.75 ounces.
  
• Broad-footed mole, Scapanus latimanus. The broad-footed mole is covered from tip of nose to tip of tail with dark brown to silver-gray fur. It will grow to between 5.5-inches and 7.75-inches long and have an average weight of approximately 1.5 ounces.
  
• Townsend’s mole, Scapanus townsendii, the largest mole in North America, is found with short, purple-gray to black fur that will typically have a metallic sheen. The Townsend’s mole will grow to between 7-inches and 9.25-inches long and have an average weight of approximately 4.5 ounces.
  
• Coast mole, Scapanus orarius, is found with soft dark gray fur and a nearly bald tail. The coast mole will grow to between 5.5-inches and 7.5-inches long and weight between 2 ounces and 3.25 ounces.
  
• Shrew mole, Neurotrichus gibbsii, is found with black or blue-black fur and has a wide tail that is typically half the length of the body. The shrew mole is the smallest of the North American genera; it will grow to between 3-inches and 5-inches long and weight between .25 ounces and .5 ounces.
  

The locations where these particular moles live can be found on our Mole Geography page.

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

Recent updates/changes:

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Moles and Mole Control - Part 1 of 11 - The Mole

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The mole is often confused with the gopher and the vole due to habitat overlap and similar eating habits - Control methods differ for these three species; many people misidentify their target and often use improper techniques in their abatement efforts.

The home range of a single mole is very large in comparison to other burrowing animals such as the gopher or the vole because it must cover a great amount of territory to meet its food requirements of up to 1.5 times its body weight per day. This large food requirement results in far fewer moles per acre than gophers or voles (the male mole may cover up to 20 times the area the male gopher may cover) and result in the creation of a vast labyrinth of feeding tunnels covering a large area, many of which will be very shallow, and create a ridge pattern on the surface. The mounds created by the mole from the creation of these tunnels are typically shaped like a volcano and can reach heights of up to two feet tall.

Moles are insectivores and most damage done by them to plant life is typically incidental rather than intentional (the exception being the Townsend’s mole, which is known to eat plants as well).

Like gophers and voles, moles do not hibernate, and are active throughout the day.

Acknowledgment:

• Henderson, F. Robert., 1994. Moles: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Extension Specialist — Animal Damage Control. Kansas State University
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  

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Gophers and Gopher Control - Part 11 of 11 - Gopher Control Methods

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Please see our Resource Directory for links to retailers who sell many of the Gopher Control products mentioned below.

Repellants

• Predator Odors (Coyote urine, Fox urine, etc.)
  
• Sonic "mole chaser"
  
• The plants caper spurge, gopher purge, mole plant, and the castor oil plant
  
• Windmills (whirly-birds) – sound emitting
  

Toxicants

• Strychnine alkaloid on grain baits – manually placed inside burrow
  

Fumigants

• Aluminum phosphide
  
• Carbon monoxide from engine exhaust
  

Trapping

• Many different types of both live and kill traps are currently available
  

Miscellaneous

• Shooting
  
• Professional abatement
  
• Owl box installation
  

Acknowledgment:


• Case, R. M., 1994. Pocket gophers: Prevention and control of wildlife damage. Department of Forestry, Fisheries
  and Wildlife. University of Nebraska
  
  
• University of Michigan Museum of Zoology - Animal Diversity Web
  
  

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